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Allen shrugs off her Burberry quilted jacket, a gift from the fashion house, and orders scrambled eggs on toast. Her publicist gets up to leave, but before he does, he hands her a large parcel.

 

“It’s from Gucci,” he says in a matter-of-fact way. Inside is the brand’s latest It bag. Called the Indy, this glitzy tote boasts a multicoloured patchwork python trim, has two enormous tassels and is adorned with silver panels. It costs £2,850. Not that Allen paid for it. The bag is an unsolicited gift. Gucci hopes that in return for its generosity, the trendsetting pop star will be photographed with the bag. Her credibility will then rub off on the brand, and legions of her fans will stampede its stores.

 

At least, that’s the thinking behind fashion’s elaborate celebrity-gift culture.

 

On this occasion, however, the system breaks down. Allen heaves the bag out of its packaging, takes one look at its gaudy detailing and, instead of squealing with girlie delight, wrinkles her little button nose and laughs in mock horror. “It’s so heavy,” she says; then adds, “It’s soooo Sarah Harding”, referring to the brash, blonde Girls Aloud member, before delivering her final, damning verdict: “It’s f***ing vile.”

 

The bag is returned to its packaging and won’t be accompanying Allen on the pages of the celebrity style mags any time soon. So, is she an ungrateful little pop princess or a woman who knows exactly what she likes and has the confidence to say so?

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